Now and Then

Lying in bed, in the quiet hours, I was reminded of a game I played as a child. Do you recall that wooden box with scattered holes dotting its surface? You would try to tilt the surface with dials, in various directions, to maneuver a small metal ball, avoiding the holes, in order to reach the winning destination. I'm not sure what that little game was called, but it seemed to me that my bed was that board... minus the holes. We have left South Georgia, heading WSW towards Antarctica, with skies of gray mist, and heaving swells of ocean all around. My bed... well, the entire ship for that matter... is steadily rocking in every direction like that nearly forgotten children's toy. I LOVE IT!

Today, traversing the great expanse of Southern Ocean, we will spend the majority of our time in the Bridge watching the ships bow ride the ocean, and marveling at the skirt of spray that periodically rises 50 feet in the air as we plunge into the waves trough. The open bridge policy is 24/7, and it is wonderful. I imagine myself as a modern day Christopher Columbus, minus any responsibility, with a pure love for the experience of this magnificent ocean. May She treat us kindly!

The next two days will provide for us an opportunity to reflect upon South Georgia, and all of its natural surprises. As with the Falkland Islands, South Georgia is an extended territory of the United Kingdom. However, it has no permanent residents. During the course of a year the population varies from roughly 15-30 contracted employees handling governmental issues, fishery licenses, research, a post office, and a bit of tourism from passing ships. There is no airport. In the past, South Georgia was a stronghold for the whaling industry... but what remains of the few whaling stations are now in ruins. The whales are very gradually making a comeback, but not enough to even see one while we were living and moving about the surrounding waters. In the early 1900's Norwegian Reindeer were introduced here, and a few flocks have remained in the areas where some bit of pasture is accessible. The balance of this island is mountainous, with cliffs on the Western edge, and occasional beaches and plains on the more hospitable Eastern side.

Stromness Whaling Station, ruins

As you know, the abundance of diverse wildlife is mind-boggling. We've enjoyed numerous species of penguin, and flying birds both small and enormous. We've played with seal pups, waddled in the procession of King penguin, sat and waited with penguin chicks for their parents to return with a meal, and watched bull elephants enact ritual fighting for breeding territory. Even with male fur seals barking, and their aggressive displays, we managed to access the shore and take a few hikes over mountain passes, even retracing the final four miles of Shackleton's famous journey. But what surprised me the most, above and beyond all of these, was a brief hour long sojourn into a Fjord, on a perfect early evening, at the ending of a faultless day.