West Falklands

There comes a point when you simply cannot hear another word about how wonderful it is going to be. Without exception, the naturalists and photographers on board have mentioned that this expedition will be the finest experience of Antarctica that is possible... and specifically that the islands of South Georgia will be a happening beyond description. Very few expeditions to Antarctica include the Falklands and South Georgia due to the distances and time necessary. Therefore, many of these experts, at best, receive this voyage opportunity no more than once a year, and their exuberance is contagious. We've been traveling for days, and it's finally time to get this party started. Today is the day, and we begin in the Falklands.

That afternoon, we had been told our specific destination was New Island, along the western edge of the archipelago. We would transport in the morning via Zodiaks, and there were four options available to each of us. The choices varied by their degree of exertion: 6 miles with an uphill climb, 3 miles with less of a climb, a 1/2 hour walk, or just stay on the beach for a meander. There would be colonies of numerous bird species, including penguins, and seals. We would start early, be back for lunch, move to another island, and then repeat with another selection of options. Of course I selected for you and I the longest hike which would include exercise and the most exposure to varying wildlife. During dinner last night we had arrived at the western edge of the islands, and gradually puttered into the perfect position to quietly spend the night. All that remained was to get some sleep and be ready in the morning.

It appears that we are still far enough north to achieve five or so hours of evening darkness. For me, our first experience in the Falklands began not long after dinner. It was roughly 11 PM, and there was the usual hum of things that make a ship work... fans and such. But there were no voices, no footsteps, no doors closing, nor toilets flushing... even you were fast asleep having a happy dream. I could make out a crescent moon and a glassy water surface from our large cabin window. I was frustratingly wide awake; but in this there is always a reason, so back flew the covers, on with the jeans, and up on deck for a stroll. And what to my wandering legs and eyes should appear but about a gazillion stars. And I know I must be far from home if I cannot make out a single familiar constellation. How Glorious! Not only that but without wind it was actually sort of warm. The outline of islands could be seen in the distance, beyond the waters glasslike surface, and if I listened very carefully I'm sure I heard the occasional grunt of some sort of animal saying "hello"... or "move over, you're on my rock". It was a fun little night trip, feeling all the more special because during the entire time I never saw another single soul. If I had only known I'd have stayed in my PJ's!

The scene of our first landing

Temperatures were in the mid-40's for our hike today, so dressing in a few layers was a cinch. We landed the Zodiacs close to the beach, hopped in the water, sloshed in, and changed our wellies for hiking boots. Over hill, over dale, our energetic group of about 25 maneuvered through tussock grass, balsam bog, fields of low lying fern-like plants, all the while avoiding the burrows of the Thin-billed Prion. These birds spend their days at sea, so all the homes were empty. The ground was mostly springy and soft, and the times of climbing were manageable. We made our way to the cliff side of the island, passing the occasional Johnny Rook and breeding pairs of Upland Geese. We peered down upon a group of fur seal, and then continued our walk to our first real experience of a colony. To be completely honest, nothing can prepare you for the feeling of sitting down amongst a group of penguins courting, cleaning, sitting on nests, and sleeping... only a foot or so away; looking at you with interest as you gaze upon them. It brings about an awed silence, and immediate picture taking.

Rockhopper Penguin

What surprised me further was that in such a large colony there was a total integration of three species. The rockhopper penguin, the blue-eyed shag, and the black-browed albatross all shared the same space with admirable harmony. We collected quite a bit of video, but it will be difficult for me to get a proper video to you while we are on ship. A photo or two, and a healthy imagination, will get us through! And I will continue to insert the occasional video clip from other productions to keep us together. This may be a good time to introduce the Johnny Rook. Worldwide it is rare, but in the Falklands they are a common predator, very curious, and often thieving of anything you happen to leave behind. Here are two videos of both the Johnny Rook and the Black-Browed Albatross of the Falklands, as we were up close and personal with both:

Now it is time to rest. We'll be landing again at 3PM, to another island, another hike, and another visit with the those birds that waddle and swim.