West Falklands Part 2

There is one Bank, one gas station, no ATM's or traffic lights, OH, and about 117 mapped and fenced minefields, reminders of the 1982 Falkland War between Argentina and Britain, which played out here on these islands. Do you remember that event? There are roughly 3000 residents of the Falkland Islands, and 85% of them live in Stanley, where the occupation occurred. I'm sure they will never forget. The remaining folks are scattered about two large islands, and 740 smaller ones. Much of the countryside is privately owned by farming families. The land is mostly barren, with poorly nutritious white grass, exposed rock, and stone fields. The hills are large, and visible life can take a long drive, or require a helicopter ride, to find. Simple living is the status quo.

At first, this nearly independent British territory made most of its income from the exportation of wool. And then the fishing industry established conservation zones in the surrounding waters, and the selling of fishing licenses has make the Falkland Islands very wealthy. The residents receive free education, including transport, room & board if you desire an advanced degree in the UK. They also gain completely no-cost health care. 

Magellanic oystercatcher

On the afternoon of that initial day in the Western Falklands, we visited Carcass Island. There, one farm owns the entire island, and a welcoming tea and cookie spread was awaiting the completion of our hike. We enjoyed a Zodiac ride to the distant shore of the cove, and were greeted by numerous species of birds. On this island (unlike New Island), there are no cats or rats, meaning that the bird population can thrive. Amongst this menagerie we met our first colony of Gentoo penguins.

Did you know that penguins can enjoy an afternoon at the beach, very similar to you and I? They enjoy the sun, have fun in the water, and clean their feathers just in case anyone is there to notice. The water was Caribbean Blue and the beach was a fine white sand. That was something I never expected to see. Did you?

Tea and cookies anyone?At the farm house I made my very best attempt to taste each of the cookies and cakes on display, but even sharing halvsies with you I couldn't get to them all. Out on the lawn were several Johnny Rooks. They are unafraid, of course, and were monitoring for any dropped tidbits. One of our guides remarked upon their interest in all things human; and if you lie very still on the ground they will gather round and see what they can take. I'll bet you can guess who immediately offered their services to play "Dead in the Grass"! Tomorrow I hope to show you a short video of that experience.

For those of you who are birders, here is our list from that afternoon:

Magellanic Penguin.  Gentoo Penguin.  Ruddy-headed Goose.  Upland Goose.  Kelp Goose.  Flightless Steamer Duck.  Speckled Teal.  Johnny Rook.  Magellanic Oystercatcher. Tussac Bird.  Dark-faced Ground Tyrant.  Falkland Thrush.  Snipe.  Cobb's Wren.