Passing the Test

Despite it's modest size, Bandiagara is the principle town within Dogon Country, which is almost entirely villages.

AND WE ARE HERE !!

In the last post, I wrote that Bandiagara was only one hour away by bus from Sevare.  Well, apparently there is a bit more involved before you can pass through this first portal to the Dogon.  At least that is my perception- in hindsight.

By noon I had found my way towards the bus region of  Sevare.  Only mini-buses make this journey and a very nice white mini-bus noticed me walking and took us to the waiting area.  A simple, straw-made, 3 sided enclosure sheltered about 10 people bound for Bandiagara, sitting on wooden benches or the ground.  It was certainly warm, but at least we were out of the sun.  Absolutely no one spoke English, so I bought a ticket and settled in... excited for the last leg of this hop, skip & jump journey from Philadelphia, USA.

We Waited

And Waited

And Waited

It became obvious to me that this bus wasn't going anywhere until it was full - and there hadn't been any newcomers for hours; only the occasional street merchant wanting to sell us something handmade, or the frequent young girls selling water or frozen juice out of small plastic bags.  And as always the ubiquitous children staring at me like a creature from another planet that just might have some candy.

And we waited

And waited

And waited

Some people stretched out on the ground and went to sleep.  I actually watched a toddler eating dirt and spitting out the stones like someone eating watermelon and spitting out the seeds - the mother didn't seem to care.

We waited so long I watched as people woke up from a nice long nap.

And as I waited, quietly, it ocurred to me that this was a test of sorts.  Much like this blogs namesake it was time to finally and fully blend.  It was time to let go of any remaining differences.  It was time to remember.  If "they" can be patient, tolerant, and completely surrendered to a 5 hour wait to take a 1 hour journey, than not only can we.... but will we.

This was a beautiful lesson.  And like most students taking an unpleasant exam there was a period of mental complaining, discomfort, and frustration, blended with impatience.  But in the final analysis what in the world is there to complain about - you see, it is my choice to take this journey.  At any point I could have walked away.  But we stayed; you and I, taking full responsibility for this choice... eventually accepting this lesson being offered from our brothers and sisters waiting with us.  We blended with their Patience, Understanding, and Surrender to not-knowing the immediate future.  And in that merging... VOILA... just like that, the bus had enough passengers, was ready to be loaded, and the portal opened.

(and NO... I didn't lay-on or eat dirt to pass this test

Bandiagara:  I am in the coolest hotel I have ever been in.  Each room is its own air-conditioned igloo build of stones.  From the outside the entire place looks like a scene from Star Wars.  This is not typical for the Dogon - rather it was built by an Italian architect.   Very Bizarre, and quite comfortable.  The igloo hotel rooms

Have a good week:  I have met our wonderfully perfect and knowledgeable guide, Mamadou Traore.  In another hour or so we will be leaving for the villages on his motorbike and then begin the trek.  He has some wonderful things in store for us and is great at speaking English.  He understands the nature of the journey and has assured us that we can meet the only surviving Hogon in the entire Dogon Country.  (probably tomorrow)  I'll be back in touch when we come out; this coming weekend.    Happy Trekking.

 Mamadou, our Dogon guide