Royal Inca Trail

We are all entitled to a vote. For me, today was the best day that I can remember; what about you? “Yes, but what about those other trips we’ve taken?” you reflectively state. Well, they were all fabulous in their own way, but today was the one! There is something absolutely perfect about Isla del Sol, Bolivia. (We made it to Bolivia in comfort and safety!) Its all about the tangible and intangibles that come together in this place to create the perfect blend... for me. What’s that you say, Machu Picchu had it all for you? Well you, my dear, have excellent taste too. And I do believe that is exactly where this narrative has left off. Let’s now go back to Machu Picchu; and what an unforgettable day that was!

Machu Picchu, put simply, was a royal retreat and religious sanctuary for the ancient Incan civilization. It is perched upon a mountaintop, connected to, and facing Huayna Picchu, the sacred mountain. And all of this is surrounded by a corona of sharply peaked mountains. At the base, far below, the Urubamba river meanders in a near circle around this central complex; even from high above you can hear its roaring hiss. This “Lost City of the Andes” is the only Incan creation to never be discovered by the Spanish conquest, and it remains intact and unadulterated. Actually this year is the 100th anniversary of its discovery by US explorer Hiram Bingham. To make the trip to Machu Picchu is considered by many to be a pilgrimage, much as it was in its Incan “hey day” roughly 500 years ago.

Machu Picchu and Huayna Picchu

Visitation generally occurs in three separate ways. You can take a train to Aguas Calientes, the town closest to the mountain complex, where there are hotels, restaurants, etc..., including daily bus service to Machu Picchu.  The bus then enters the circular aggregate of mountains along the rivers route, and then climbs in a serpentine fashion high above to the official entrance. Many others choose to make a four day hike to Machu Picchu, along the route used by the ancient Inca pilgrims. From all over the Incan civilization, this was the path used by those wishing to visit this “cathedral in the sky”.  Finally, there is the Royal Inca Trail which takes about 7-8 hours to complete. This footpath was reserved for Incan rulers, their associated extensive family (multiple wives were permitted), and other “higher-ups” of the Incan society. This was the passage that we took; and in order to begin this trek we used the first half of the IncaRail train. After dropping us off, it chug-chug-chugged along, taking many others all the way to Aquas Calientes.

Inca Rail TrainThe train was very comfortable, serving snacks and beverages much like an airplane flight with a cart down the aisle. It followed along the Urubamba river valley from Ollantaytambo, with sharp mountains rising up on either side. After a bit of an early morning snooze, we were unceremoniously dropped off in the middle of an uninhabited cloud forest to commence our days hike. Along the climb from the valleys floor we encountered several Incan ruins, originally placed to offer respite, and as a gateway to control the people allowed along this exclusive trail. Actually, the exclusivity remains today because the number of daily trekkers is strictly limited. We needed to obtain our trail passes at the first of the year to secure this very special opportunity.

Scenes from the trail

It was a wonderful day, and it felt quite special to be taking the path that so many have taken over the centuries. The culmination of the hike occurs at the Sun Gate, as you pass over a notch in the mountaintop and gaze for the first time at the secluded spectacle of Machu Picchu, and the sacred pyramidal monolith of Huayna Picchu. It is a deeply mystical image that instills profound awe. Please stay tuned for the movie remembrance of this very special day, a journey that has the potential to change you forever.